New building and carpenter

Waffle Slabs on H2 Class Soil

Here’s a question about waffle slabs on Class H2 soil that we have been asked more than once:

“We have a soil test for our new house. It came back as Class H2. The builder we went to is planning on using a waffle slab. Will our house be ok?”

So let’s work out some of the terminology first and then I’ll explain what my advice was and why.

What is Class H2 Soil?

In Australia, soil conditions for residential buildings are classified according to Australian standard AS2870. The latest version of this standard is the 2011 version.

The standard classifies soil mainly based on soil reactivity – how much the clay in the soil is likely to absorb and release moisture and how much the soil will swell and shrink. The swelling and shrinking of soils result in vertical movement of the soil surface. Uneven vertical movement can damage houses.

It comes down to this: a class H2 soil is a highly reactive clayey soil that between wetish and dryish soil moisture conditions can produce very high ground movement. In numbers: 60mm to 75mm of vertical movement.

When is house movement a problem?

Soil movement under a house only becomes a major problem when it is uneven. If a whole house lifts and drops at the same rate then there is unlikely to be evidence of this movement inside the house.

House damage results if part of a house moves up or down 60mm and part of the house does not move at all.

That is partly the purpose of AS2870: to provide footing (and slab) systems that can tolerate or resist uneven movement.

The tools the standard uses to protect houses against uneven movement are stiffer, stronger footings, deeper footings, isolation from ground movement and protection of soils from extremes in soil moisture conditions (very wet and very dry soils are specifically excluded from the scope of the standard).

Stronger, stiffer footing systems can span further over areas of uneven ground. The house might still move, but the strength of the footing system is there to moderate the movement.

Waffle Slabs and Ground Movement

Waffle slabs use a grid of concrete beams under the slab to achieve the required strength and stiffness to counter ground movement. Deeper concrete beams means more strength and more stiffness.

Again, the higher the soil reactivity the stronger and stiffer the footing and slab system needs to be.

Can I Use a Waffle Slab on a Class H2 Soil?

AS2870 says waffle slabs can be used on reactive clay soils – even Class H2 soils – with some construction style limits:

  • Timber frame: Yes.
  • Articulated Brick Veneer: Yes
  • Brick Veneer (without articulation): No
  • Double Brick: No

Note that these rules can be over-ridden by a qualified and experienced structural engineer – but that is a whole different post.

Some Precautions to Take

These precautions apply to all reactive clay sites but they are much more important for highly reactive clay sites like Class H2 sites. They are even MORE important for waffle slabs:

  • Plan your siteworks to ensure good drainage away from the building on all sides (even the upslope side).
  • Manage stormwater drainage on the site from the very first day of the build. Do not allow water to pond near the footings.
  • The bottom of sewer and stormwater trenches outside the building must fall away from the building.
  • Keep trees at least 2 x mature height away from the building.
  • Build ponds and water features away from the house.
  • Set up irrigation systems so they do not water close to the footings. Do not position sprinkler control boxes near the footings.
  • Do not position garden beds near the house.
  • Ensure paths and walkways fall away from the building. Position paths so that they do not dam water against the footings. The ground under pathways should also fall away from the building.
  • Manage site stormwater with surface drains (spoon drains) that are away from the building in preference to underground pipes – particularly if there are large trees and lots of leaf litter.
  • Do not discharge stormwater pipes onto the ground next the building. Discharge to the gutter where possible or to bubblers positioned well away from the building in rural areas.
  • Seal the gap between concrete pathways and ground slabs with flexible joint sealant (not just Abelflex).
  • Builders fill used to raise the ground surface around waffle slabs should NOT be sandy soils. Clayey soils are better able to shed water away from the building.
  • Position agricultural drains at least 1.5m away from the building.

Looking for More Information?

Check out these guides for more information:

 

4 thoughts on “Waffle Slabs on H2 Class Soil”

  1. To Whom It May Concern,

    I’m in the very early stages of building a house (tender stage). Our Soil Report has come back as a “H1″ with the following comments:-

    “Due to depth and type of fill, provide “H1” type raft founded onto firm existing controlled fill material”. Later on in the report it also states that Footing Piers & Slab Piers are not required.

    When I’ve reviewed my quotation, it states “reinforced concrete slab for soil classification type H1 with an additional cost. A lot of your posts have indicated that this shouldn’t be at an additional cost.

    2 questions – (1) should it be more expensive ? (2) do you believe this poses a greater risk and how would this be covered by a builders structural warrant, should something go wrong?

    Thanks very much for your time/advice.

  2. Hi, I’m a bit confused.

    Our Soil test report says that the site is classified as “class P” due to proximity of trees and their potential to cause Abnormal Moisture Condition onsite, and the underlying soils are classified as class “M-D” type soil. The engineers have recommended for a class H2 Waffle slab.

    Is this the right slab to use? Will we be expecting some damages/ cracks in the future?

    Thanks for your help. Greatly appreciated.

    1. Hi Ike
      Trees increase the difference between wet and dry soil conditions by removing moisture from the soil in dry times and by having little effect in wet seasons. The larger range in soil moisture conditions increases the potential amount of soil movement under your house. So trees cause there to be more ground movement than your soil tester and engineer normally design your house footings for.
      Whether the increase from Class “M-D” to Class “H2” is sufficient or overkill is an assessment that your engineer must make after taking into account the soil conditions, the number of trees, how close they are to the building, how tall they are (or could become) and a number of other factors.
      Note that even well designed homes move and crack. A correct footing design will try to moderate movement to within tolerable limits that fragile linings like brickwork and plasterboard can handle. But you’ll have a part to play too – most importantly by maintaining good drainage around your home and by not overwatering your lawn.
      The good news is that 1) you have an engineer designing your footings; 2) the engineer knows enough to consider the drying effect of trees; and 3) you’re considering these things now, before your house is built.
      All the best with your new house. Enjoy the build process and definitely enjoy your new home.
      Matt

  3. I liked that you specified the construction styles that I can use when building a waffle slab on Class H2 soil. I’ve been considering using brick veneer for a waffle slab on my property before reading this post. Now that I know what my limitations are, I should consider using a timber frame or articulated brick veneer since they’ll work better on Class H2 soil.

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